Spring Summer 2010

Maxi dresses, head scarves, and geometric mosaic prints from a Japanese fashion house?  Antonio Marras took us on a Middle Eastern adventure, not surprising as the starting point for the collection was Freya Stark, an English writer and Traveller of the Middle East.  It was a tale of two parts with bright bold colour block looks preceded by beautiful printed maxi dresses and that stunning large check trench.

I love how even in the very Islamic patterns there were still elements of the Japanese aesthetic in the indigo blue and white prints.  An harmonious marriage of cultures that didn’t look in the least bit contrived.  Kenzo is always a go to fashion house for jilbab style maxi dresses and loose fit, so there’s not a lot more Marras could have done to speak to us ladies this Summer.

Cultural Combinations

I guess the Japanese, English, Arab mix isn’t such a strange one after all, well  it is something very close to my heart.  It’s rather lovely to know it can be done so beautifully too!

(images: via style.com)

Beautiful Boho

I can’t quite express how much I love this look, that belt, that jacket, that dressss.  The whole collection was a fusion of Japanese and Islamic prints, there were even some headscarves on show.  But I’ll try and do a full report when I get some more time.  For now let’s just fall in love with this.

(image: style.com)

Future Couture

The Main

After whetting your appetite with a Gaultier ‘Modest Maxi Dress Moment’ and again with the ‘Couture Collections’ here’s the main event. I’m having trouble deciding who’s couture collection I love most after doing this post. There was so much to look at with Gaultier, so many details, textures and colours not to mention a huge variety of styles. From re-worked sailor to sci-fi gowns it could well have been ‘The Fifth Element meets Bugsy Malone 2009′ and that’s no bad thing.

Highlights

Dungarees- Please let them make a comeback, forget worker denim, lets have some sequined glamour. Perfect for modest dressing, I’m thinking layers.

Floor length jackets- easily worn as an abaya or over an outfit these jackets were the perfect statement.

Black Velvet- Understated opulence, if there could be such a thing, a sleek choice for maxi dresses.

Quirky Tailoring- Sharp shoulders and sculpted details the perfect addition to be dressed up or down.

(images:style.com)

Islamic bridal styles: Think floaty fluttering fabrics and simple shapes

Don’t Panic

A lot of Muslimahs are stumped when it comes to bridal wear, we don’t really have mainstream options and it ends up being more a cultural choice. Growing up as a non Muslim I had a very different view of what I would wear on my wedding day, nothing too bridey just simple and timeless. When it came about I was more interested in being married than the wedding itself and I think that was the right way to look at it. But if I could give the outfit another go I would, actually I had three attempts- The Nikah, the Walimah and the registry office thing.

Should I show you what I wore? To be honest the outfits looked fine in photos but it’s the attention to detail that (as a self confessed perfectionist) gets me thinking shoulda, woulda, coulda… I believe they are the last words of a fool

So here’s my very comprehensive guide to finding your look. In this part we’ll look at the different styles you can go with and see what designers are doing bridal-wise and how we can make them hijab friendly.

Hijab bridal: embrace the childhood dreams of princess dresses and full netted skirts

Sleek vs. Volume

I think I like the sleeker fairy tale style best because in particular the Anne Valerie Hash dress, the look simple and effortless and would stand the test of time. It is slightly easier for a Muslimah to pull off than the traditional full skirt style because you don’t have the cinched in waist, though we will explore ways around this. I was always a bit of a tom boy and didn’t really get bitten by the ‘disney style wedding’ bug. Having said that I am absolutely in love with the Reem Acra gown just above, it manages to combine simplicity and big impact in one beautifully constructed dress.

Islamic Fashion Registry outfit: a long dress with a bolero jacket is a really good choice and gives you a variety of options. The photo of me and my sister always makes me smile!

Bitesize Bridal Guide

Explore your options

As a new(ish) Muslimah I was just getting into my groove style wise and hadn’t really explored the possibilities of what you can wear. Because actually there aren’t that many restrictions, you just have to know what to do with the fabric.

Comfort Confidence

Stick with what you know and love regarding colours, shape and size. It’s tempting to go for something totally out of your comfort zone but you risk the hit or miss factor. My advice would be to look though old photos and find an outfit that you love, and the same for colour. Then with the silhouette and colour of the outfit you’re already half way there.

I’m definitely not saying you can’t get experimental, just make sure you’ve tried and tested (and photographed) all your options on you before you buy. This way you can take the best of all your favourite outfits and work out a way to include them.

All Made Up

Make-up is also a consideration, go with what you’re comfortable with and try and test it until you get the look you want (allow a lot of time for this!). I’m a less is more kinda gal. I look like a clown with too much make-up, my face just can’t handle it. Here I only used gloss, eye-liner a touch of eye shadow and mascara. Trust yourself and your nearest and dearest only, the last thing you want is to feel self conscious!

Tailor Made

I think a lot of Muslimahs get their dresses tailor made and this is probably the best option, here are some tips:

Get actual examples of design details etc. that you want to include.

Be very clear, sketch out exactly what you want and how you want it to fit.

Get measured, even though the outfit will be loose it’s very important that it actually fits well.

Talk the design over with the tailor, get as many fittings as you need until you’re happy.

If you don’t really know what you want find a designer that you’re comfortable with and talk through ideas and sketches. In part 2 I’ll be putting up some questions that inshAllah will help you decide what you want and what suits you.

Muslim Wedding outfits: Break with tradition and choose colour and bold interesting shapes

Trash Tradition

I’m all for going against the grain, it throws up a whole new realm of possibility, from evening wear to vintage gowns as long as you love it remember there aren’t any rules on what style it should be.

The Heart of the Matter

Is the most important thing the dress? no. I had an amazing time and such happy memories of all three occasions! What you need to be sure of is that when you look back on your photos you’re looking at the man you entrusted and shared your future with and that it was the best decision you ever made… Still I guess there’s no harm in having a pretty dress too.

Walimah outfit: choose silk, it's lovely to wear and drapes beautifully I actually quite like the silk and net combination

Next time: We’ll look at the best bridal designers out there and see how we can take their techniques and create an Islamic style wedding dress. Top tips on finding a style to suit you and how to not get lost in it all! I’ll do a couple of sketches based on what we’ve looked at and imagine I can go back in time and change my outfit… hey Doc fire up the De Lorean.

(images: style.com and nymag.com)

Islamic Fashion: A selection of this seasons finest Kaftans

Summer Cycle

Every summer the Kaftan comes back , new and improved. A wardrobe staple, for some people it’s just a beach cover-up, but for hijabi’s they can provide a very lightweight, loose relief from the heat. So you can see why I have such a soft spot for these easy wearing garments. I will say that it is particularly difficult to find a suitable one on the high-street that doesn’t need another top underneath (bikini through a kaftan must be a popular look). So when you find one it’s worth grabbing it and heading for the nearest check out counter. The good news is that you can buy almost any size bigger than you are and get away with it, and if you have a bit of cash to splash then Antik Batik has an amazing range.

One step up sees you with Naeem Khan, whose kaftans (and pretty much everything else) is absolutely stunning. Expect a designer spotlight post soon!

There are some pretty sandals and scarves too!

It must be Summer

You know it’s getting to that time of year when vogue has a Kaftan in one of it’s features, so what better time to share this post with you, and as promised via twitter here’s the original inspiration.

From July's issue- all things beach related

Antik Batik Kaftans

Antik Batik has long been a favourite of the ‘Jet-Set’ and you can see why. Without over embellishment they still manage to be something a little different, perfectly lovely!

Hijab fashion: Antik Batik has fine prints and great shapes, perfect for Muslimahs

Reem Acra

Reem Acra is another designer with beautiful reinventions of the Kaftan, this time a lot more ornate and ’special’. You’ll need a whole lot of pennies to afford one though. Maybe if you’re getting married in Hawaii and want something a little different…

images: style.com, Antik Batik and Vogue

Stripes, and Ruffles, and Frills, oh my!

Islamic Inspiration in Layers

Paris Designer Sonia Rykiel pulled out all the stops for her 40th anniversaire show. It was a bold mix of fun and feathers comfortable along side chic clean tailoring, all with a ‘joie de vivre‘ that befitted the celebration. There were a range of techniques on show that would benefit Muslimah’s. From frills and loose layers to relaxed tailoring that concealed body shape, not particularly simple but definitely beautiful. Adjustments would definitely have to be made to make them hijab friendly but I love the concepts.

Body cover ups: use structured tailoring or frilly layers to disguise body shape

Encore

As a little extra the audience (and a surprised Sonia Rykiel) were treated to 30 looks designed by some of the biggest names in fashion. That sounds like the kind of surprise I could get on board with!

Pre-Fall selection: Headscarves and all there are some beautiful shapes

Pre-Fall Collection

The Pre-Fall collection was more toned down and wearable than the previous season but they still retain a sense of fun. With the colour palette much simpler they really packed a punch with the tomato red. A perfect morning after to the party of the Spring Summer collection.

Moschino's maxi dress makes for modest Muslim style

Islamic-chic

I absolutely love this Moschino maxi dress, it’s that kind of effortless chic that makes this perfect. The modest colour and loose shape definitely relate to Muslimah Fashion, I even this sleeves would work under this asymmetric design. Hmm, now about those bunnies….

Add a quirky twist to sandals with Tabi Socks

Sock it to me

For Muslimahs who cover there footsies tabi socks are an excellent way to make the most of sandals and peep-toes. The Japanese have started a very Muslim friendly trend here, they are cute, edgy, and are actually designed to be worn with sandals.

From plain to printed tabi socks are cute and comfortable

How to Choose Tabi

The best tabi socks are made of stretch fabric, not the normal sock fabric. This means that there is just one seam down the front and you can see if you hold it up that it’s shaped for a left or right foot. I only have one pair at the moment. I couldn’t find any utterly inspirational socks on the net, but for the plain white ones you can go to any traditional Japanese clothes site. My dad is over in Japan now and I asked him to pick me up some more printed ones so I’ll let you know what he comes up with inshAllah.

I love the cutesy look when worn with peep toes. The good thing is that even if they clash it kind of adds to the charm, it’s definitely a modest way to make a mini statement!

for Givency Haute Couture

Subtle but still show-stopping, Riccardo Tisci creates clever shapes in drape

Effortless Chic

I saw this couture gown in this months Vogue and fell in love with the way it drapes. The bias-cut fishtail gown is stunning because it’s classic, but with clever twists. I think the sleeves are really beautiful, and with long sleeves under, this type of sleeve could really work for hijabi’s

Islamic style meets risque sheer fabrics at Kenzo

So now you’re in a Japanese mood let me introduce you to Kenzo’s Spring/Summer 2009 collection. Pretty florals and floaty, lighter than air, dresses to sum it up. The dresses had layers, illusions of layers, and layers of print so you can pretty much tell I was in love at first sight. Most of the dresses were more than a little see through so not exactly hijab friendly in that respect, but the shapes were utterly Islamic.

Kenzo creates elegant silhouettes with stunning drapery

Drapery

The asymmetric drapery works really well here, but I’ve not yet found a way to make one shoulder dresses work for Muslimahs. But basically this is showing you how a maxi dress can look elegant whilst concealing your shape.

Prints

I’m not usually a fan of prints, let alone floral prints, but I do love these. Somewhere between vintage Japanese and English heritage they are subtle and modest. You need something that’s not going to break your concentration during prayer and I think this mix of print and plain are simple enough not to.

The dress to the left shows perfect asymmetric drapery and it’s completely opaque. Now it’s just a question of having the cash!

Tops

There were also a beautiful selection of short dresses (or as I like to call them tops) on offer on the Kenzo catwalk. The mixing and layering of prints take these simple silhouettes to a new and more interesting design.

See below…

Islamic Style: Loose feminine dresses/tops at Kenzo

A lesson Learned

Hmm, what have we learned here? Well aside from the reminder not to wear see through chiffon I think we can say that dresses with strips of fabric don’t have to look like gypsy skirts and that’s always a good thing. The gypsy style had its moment but this feminine floaty reincarnation is far more subtle and sophisticated. And when it comes to my dream wish list, I’m definitely away with the fairies. Kenzo fairies of course.