Fall 2009

Long sleeves and maxi length, what more could you want. Perhaps loose draping and understated colours? These picks from the Karl Lagerfeld Autumn collection are muslimah friendly and quite ingenious layering!

(images: style.com)

Haider Ackermann

I can’t believe it took me this long to figure out that the familiar face I saw in the Paris show was Haider Ackermann. I was wracking my brains, trying to place him. Eventually and with a little help from the Sartorialist it came back to me. The closest I’ve come to being starstruck I think, silly I know. He has that cool laid back style that I love (and think I love more now). To see his awesome work I did a couple of posts a while ago here and here. You can see him at the bottom of the second post with Tilda Swinton. Enjoy!

This will be the last ‘Look of the Week’ from the Summer ‘09 collections, but not to worry, I’ll be asking your opinion on some amazing Fall lines next week!

Note: There is a poll embedded within this post, please visit the site to participate in this post's poll.

You can still vote on your favourite Maxi Dresses from last week here! Because lets face it- voting is fun!

New Muslimah Style

For Muslims it can be hard to find a style that really reflects your personality whilst staying modest. So when I saw Duro Olowu’s Spring 2009 collection I really thought I’d stumbled across something fresh. It felt like he had a totally different view point and something exciting to inject into mainstream fashion. Then when I saw his Fall 09 collection I really fell in love with his artistic approach to design. Unlike a lot of ‘new style’ his collection is very wearable, and for us Hijab wearers very modest.

Do D.I.Y.

I’m hoping his style filters down to a more affordable high street level, but having said that you’re probably better off D.I.Y-ing it. More original, more personality for less money- that’s the kind of maths I like! When I get the time I’ll do I Duro Olowu inspired D.I.Y tutorial.

Good Little Actions

Read Surah Kahf on a Friday (before maghrib)- try and read the translation too, it really makes a difference.

Hadith of the Day

“Whoever recites Surat al-Kahf on Friday, light shall shine forth for him between the two Fridays.” Ibn Hajar, Talkhis al-Habir

Fall Feeling

Muslimah Style: Go boho with flowing floral prints, perfect for the Summer- Autumn transition

I ♥ Layers

This glamorous bohemian style is great for a more casual maxi dress look. And although the waist is tighter than I would like for an abaya it would look lovely layered under a lightweight knit. You could even add the head band under your headscarf and have an inch or so showing. I want to try it out!

Half Layers

Miu Miu, Junya Watanabe and Fendi were just a few of the designers to pick this quirky little trend for Spring Summer 09. These layers are great for us Muslims to cover up tight fitting garments or over trousers for more coverage. Ordinarily I would run a mile from a trend like this, but when you have such beautiful examples as in the Miu Miu and Marc Jacobs collections I am definitely tempted to try it out. So don’t think of them as ‘aprons’ rather little layers of loveliness!

(images: style.com)

Stunning statement white Valli coat and a gorgeous Alexander Mcqueen maxi dress

Silver Lining

There’s nothing more satisfying than a crisp white garment, and head to toe can only really be done in Summer (water marks on hems are not a good look!). But we do have to be careful when it comes to summer sun through a skirt beautifully illustrated by the pic above. But you can always attach a lining, it doesn’t even have to be made well or neatly. A handy way to wear semi sheer white clothes or one of those floaty kaftans that are everywhere in the sales now.

Maxi shirt dresses are perfect for hijabis, beautiful for summer!

Islamic Layer Love

A shirt dress is a Muslimah’s best fashion friend and here’s why. Whether they are full sleeved, half sleeved or no sleeves at all they are perfect for layering. They tend to be very lightweight so you don’t have all the bulk of other dresses. You can open them up and team them with long sleeved tees, which is a look I love. Great under jackets, over jeans or wide leg trousers there’s not a lot they don’t go with!

The simple dress shirt has been redesigned for 2009

Islamic Fashion: A colourful Maxi Shirt Dress from Hermes

Designers for Summer Shirts

Designers from Hermes, Pollini to Dries Van Noten have reinvented the shirt dress into essentials for the perfect summer outfit. You can see how easily you can adapt these outfits into Muslim friendly fashion. A perfect alternative to an Abaya, for those days you want something a little different.

Layer shorter shirt dresses with wide leg trousers or a maxi skirt

My Favourites

I love the Emanuel Ungaro cross between a kaftan and a shirt dress. If a bit sheer, the mini/maxi length makes it perfect for layering. Limi Feu, daughter of the legendary Yohji Yamamoto is a designer in her own right. She has taken classic tailoring and given it an edgy twist. This oversized dress-shirt outfit is a headscarf away from being hijab. Simple but so beautiful.

Not just for summer, shirt dresses were seen on the Bottega Veneta runway for Fall 09. Keep them coming!

Muslimah Style: This stunning dress is by Bottega Veneta

Cheap Chic

What with the credit crunch there’s never been a better time for some cheap D.I.Y. fashion, and what better place to start than a t-shirt. Any t-shirt will do, printed or plain, long or short sleeved. The key is to get one that is super loose.

This tutorial will take you step by step through the process of customizing. But why stop there, let your imagination run wild and create unique masterpieces! And if you don’t quite get it right, there’s always a supply of unwanted old t-shirts in thrift stores of dads/hubbys wardrobe- just make sure you get permission!

Tools for Customizing

All you really need is a sewing machine (only the really skilled would take this on hand stitching!). Everything else can be substituted.

Here I used 2 cutting mats, but you only really need one at least A4 size (you can also use thick card).

Thread in whatever colour takes your fancy!

A metal ruler and cutting wheel. You can use scissors and a steady hand, if you do it’s probably best to mark on the inside exactly where you’re cutting.

For draping and pinning tailors dummys or mannequins are great. I was lucky enough to find this one on ebay in almost my exact measurements. If you do a lot of clothes making it’s a worthy investment. Even if it’s not your exact size, shove a leotard or underwear on it and pad it out with blanket wadding. You can end up with a very accurate body.

1. The first thing I did was to cut about 7cm into the shoulder seam from the neck, this allows it to drape to one side and gives you an interesting shape to work with.

2. Next start pinning thin tucks horizontally across the t-shirt, the length can vary (these ones were roughly 12cm long)

3. Once you’ve figured out where you want to put your pins (remember you can always change them later) you can add the knotted detail. You don’t have to have it in the same place as I put it, but I really like the way it shapes the bottom of the t-shirt.

Prepare by placing a cutting mat inside the t-shirt (between the front and back layers), this prevents you cutting through both sides, unless that’s the look you want. Now for the point of no return! Cutting in to the fabric, take a deep breath and remember it’s only a t-shirt ! Cut 3 slashes into the fabric, the slits I cut were roughly 13cm long and spaced about 3cm apart.

4. Take the bottom edge of the slit closest to the hem, bring it underneath both the newly cut strips of t-shirt to the top edge. Now pin it into place, you can either just pin it straight on top (as above) or for a neater finish treat it like a seam and get the right sides together and pin close to the edge though both layers from the wrong side. (It sounds more complicated than it is I promise!)

5. Don’t stitch until you’re absolutely sure of what you’ve pinned, you can always unpick if you get it wrong but jersey fabric is very tricky to unpick without unraveling the whole t-shirt!

Stitch the tucks as close to the edge as you dare to go for a more professional look.

6. Stitch closed the slashed edge that you pinned in step 4, don’t worry if you don’t stitch corner to corner, it’s just to keep it in place once it’s knotted

Finally tie each of the strips in ‘loop’ knots (I don’t know the correct term), pull them fairly tight so they won’t come undone. Then cut the thread ends, for a professional finish pull the thread ends through to the wrong side and tie them so all the knots and ends are on the inside of the t-shirt and won’t show.

For the finishing touches roll up the sleeves 80’s style! This stops it looking baggy and makes it look as though it was made to be oversized. You can even run a stitch (by hand) through the rolled sleeve to keep it in place.

Et voila! Credit Crunch Couture- One ready to rock customized t-shirt, this is just a starting point looking at ways to recycle big old t-shirts. You can develop the idea taking out or leaving in any of the steps I did, you can even add fabric paint, stenciled patterns, studs, diamante, whatever you like. You’ll end up with something truly unique!

If you have any questions about the steps or technical details you can leave comments below. Don’t forget to let me know what you think, I love hearing your opinions!

Born and raised in Malaysia Sheeda has just completed an Electrical Engineering Degree. She gives insightful answers and proves that however diverse our backgrounds and personal style, our Muslim core is what defines us and brings us together.

Do you follow fashion trends?

I do not believe in following fashion trends blindly. Being trendy does not necessarily mean that you’re fashionable or stylish. It’s always good to inject our own personal style in dressing.

Which item of clothing would you say was a key piece for a Muslimah?

I think most girls would agree when I say that a structured jacket is the key piece in a Muslimah’s wardrobe. It helps to keep us covered without losing the style factor.

How does wearing hijab make you feel?

Living in an era where bad influences can come in so many different ways, wearing hijab for me is like a reminder that I am a Muslimah and I am bound to the demands of my beloved religion. In a way it helps me to learn and grow hopefully to become a better Muslimah.

Who or what do you look at for style inspiration?

I get my inspiration from fashion blogs and online shops. I love to see real people putting up pieces of clothing together.

Who are your favourite designers?

The legendary Karl Lagerfeld

What tip can you share with StyleCovered readers?

I am really not good in giving tips, but allow me to borrow a quote from Coco Chanel; ” The best color in the world is the one that looks good, on you”. Well it basically means that you have to always make sure that you’re comfortable in whatever you’re wearing. When you feel comfortable, you will exude confidence. And nothing is more beautiful than a woman with confidence.

What goes through your head when you’re putting an everyday outfit together?

Comfort and appropriateness to the event or place I am going to.

Favourite item of clothing in your wardrobe?

I love skinny jeans as much as i love long tunics so i really can’t make my stand to choose one and both of the items go well together too!

Is there any item of clothing, or trend that you stay away from?

Super high heels. I mean they are absolutely beautiful but very uncomfortable too. I usually opt for flats because to me, comfort is key.

If you go on a spending spree what do you go for?

When I shop, I really look into detailing, floral, ruffles, beads, ribbon tie sash are mostly the items that catch my eye.

What are your style trademarks/habits?

Black. I am always drawn to anything black or at the very least, things that match with black. I think black can be stylish and safe at the same time.

A style tip if you’re saving money?

Mix and match. It’s really not necessary to buy something new every time. It’s good to mix and match items of clothing that are already in the wardrobe and try to get a few different looks out of it. That way, you’ll feel like you’re wearing something new every time!

Beauty is…?

Personified. If think if we really take our time and try to get to know a person, we would know that everyone is beautiful in their own ways.

As a Muslimah what do you look for in clothing?

I normally try my best look for decent clothing to represent my image as a Muslimah. I try to avoid t-shirts with lewd or obscene statement, (believe me there are plenty in the market), and tops with inappropriate graphics.

In high-street shops I head straight for…?

The first thing that catches my eye. Yes. I am, in fact, guilty as charged, an impulse buyer. If something caught my eye and has a good fit, (given that the price is within my budget ), I will not hesitate to buy it.

When it comes to accessories I…?

Keep them to a bare minimum. I love charmbracelets and chunky rings but its usually an either or situation. If i wear the charmbracelet, chances are, i lose the chunky ring.

To show us your take on Muslimah Style with the chance to be featured as StyleCovered StyleSister send your photos in to hana@stylecovered.com, all the details are here.